MINI-REVIEWS DALLAS
By Kim Pierce
Staff Writer of The Dallas Morning News

Taj Mahal in Caruth Plaza is one of those dining perennials that does such a good job it almost goes unnoticed.

Pretty but never splashy, it's filled with color and visual flourish. There is the familiar Indian-motif shape of the windows - which looks like a silhouette of drawn-back curtains. Like little peek-a-boo cutouts, the same shape decorates the top of what once was the wall dividing this into two retail spaces. Teal wallpaper dances up what's left of the wall, and mirrors open up the room even more. With white-on-maroon tablecloths and jeweled Indian paintings, it all help set a warm and vivacious atmosphere.

the waiters never miss a beat. Neatly attired in white shirts and black pant and ties, they are focused, confident, friendly - almost invisible. At one point, a bread basket disappeared from the table as if by sleight of hand.

The food is also a delight, as much for the nose as the palate. The aroma of freshly ground and whole spices - from cardamom and cloves to saffron and cumin seed - permeates the air.

Onion bhaji,,,makes a good start - fried chickpea batter studded with onion and loads of cumin. Good by themselves, they could also be dipped in the complimentary mint and tamarind chutneys, one hot and the other tart.

Chicken Jalferzi,,,was a sizzling platter of whit meat atop grilled onions with tomato and bell pepper bathed in earthy seasonings. Some of the fluorescent red tandoori shrimp...were on the tough side, but the soft spiciness was a nice touch.

Saffron-flavored basmati rice and tandoo-cooked whole-wheat flat bread mad good foils for the occasion direct hit fiery peppers, although on the whole, the heat was tame. Another fine cooler was the barely sweet lassi..., a frothy yogurt drink.

Desserts worth savoring include kheer..., a creamy rice pudding flavored with cardamom, and kulfi.., softened Indian ice cream made with evaporated milk and also flavored with cardamom. Pick the pods out of your food, along with the whole cloves; they're not meant to be eaten.

If you're new to Indian food or don't feel quite secure navigating the menu alone, you have options: (1) Let one of the waiters order for you; they're very skilled. (2) Come during the lunch buffet (... Monday-Friday, ...Saturday and Sunday). (3) Try one of the special dinners, which carry you from appetizer to tea and dessert (...a person) without having to make a single decision.

Then sit back and allow the parade to begin.